Archive for April, 2009

History

Tuesday, April 28th, 2009

History can look quaint, especially when technology is involved. An iPod of today has more storage capacity than monster computer rooms of the 1970s. But as recently as 1992, when I met Jhane .  .  .

At Syracuse University in the 1980s I experimented with ways of embodying all kinds of pattern design rules into software as a creative tool using Mathematics. In 1989 I saw an article about how Jhane used  computers to help with fashion design so I brashly wrote to her, claiming that I had ways of infusing the computer software with some creativity. Nada. Then I learned how a loom worked and wrote a program that simulated the loom elements – warp, weft, threading, tieup, peg plan etc. In 1991 I started a little company to launch this product and take the weaving world by storm. That didn’t happen, exactly, but in 1992 we set up a booth at Convergence in Washington where Jhane was the keynote speaker. Jhane came to our booth and bought our little $225 product called WeaveMaker, even though it was a pre-Windows PC program, and Jhane was already into Mac computers. Jhane said she had a déjà vu feeling about something, and it was because she remembered my 1989 letter.

It was a technological misfit because of hardware, but much else was wrong, too. My WeaveMaker had fixed warp and weft sizes and harnesses, determined by my screen resolution. I didn’t know anything about floats or dozens of other weaving essentials. But the combination of my naiveté and Math ideas produced some design elements, particularly warp threadings and color schemes, that were new and appealing to Jhane. Just two months later, Jhane invited me to her studio to show me some fabrics made from WeaveMaker. They were gorgeous, as you would expect from Jhane, but what persistence and insight this lady showed to get good fabrics out of what I provided her! Silk purses from sows’ ears were nothing compared to this!

Thanks to Jhane, I was able to satisfy myself that my idea had merit and could indeed enhance designer creativity. But there was work to be done. Within a few months, I was able to arouse the interest of a colleague at Syracuse University, Dana Cartwright. Dana had the skills to create an all-new version of WeaveMaker that ran on the Mac and incorporated the controls required for serious design work.

The word is synergy. The example is classic. Jhane teaching Dana and me about fashion, weaving, yarns, colors, and design while describing the tools she needed. Dana’s implementation expertise applied to making those tools easy to use and productive. My proclivity for converting word descriptions of design ideas, fabric examples, and even casual observation of elements of Jhane’s style to computer algorithms with extensive application of Mathematics. As a bonus, I was occasionally able to tap the intrinsic order of Mathematical objects to introduce new design ideas that blossomed under Jhane’s magic touch. Yes, the whole was so much greater than the sum of its parts!

This has been going on for seventeen years. That’s a lot of History, a lot of design, a lot of what is uniquely Jhane.

– Bill Jones, Designer Software, Syracuse, NY

Geek Fashion

Thursday, April 23rd, 2009

My name is Heidi, and I am one of Jhane’s assistant designers.  I am a rare breed of fashionista-computer nerd.

As a toddler, I would climb out of my crib at night and scribble all over my walls with my orange crayons.  Always orange.  I don’t know why my mother didn’t just throw away the orange crayons.  I was always creative, and I excelled in art class, as well as many other right-brained activities.  However, I discovered that I was really good at left-brained activities as well, like math.

My mom is left handed.  She loves to cook, and has a flair for decorating her home — she is typically right-brained.  My dad is extremely left-brained, he’s a numbers guy.  He loves money.com and Business Week, and in fact, I can’t remember ever seeing him read a fiction book.  In high school, I enjoyed both art and math.  I was encouraged by my parents to pursue both activities, but always felt I was supposed to pick one or the other.

Although I took A.P. Calculus my senior year and tested out of all my college math requirements, art did eventually win.  I went to Philadelphia to study painting at Tyler School of Art.  When I got to art school, I met the most amazing group of creative, inspiring, and artistic (right-brained) people.  But the left-brained thinkers were few and far between.

I still felt really unresolved because only half of my brain was being challenged.  Years after I graduated, still trying to figure out what I wanted to do, I started hand knitting.  I realized that I really loved figuring out the interloopings of the yarn which create fabric.  I wanted to design fabric for bulk production.

I attended FIT and studied Textile & Surface Design.  Besides satisfying my creative side, weaving also engaged the left side of my brain — how many vertical threads vs. how many horizontal threads, figuring out complicated weave structures, and the science behind the different fibers which make up yarn and are woven into fabric.

I remember hanging out with an old art school friend, and trying to describe why textile design was such a good fit for me.  I described how sometimes designs are very complicated or have deep concepts behind them, and sometimes just an orange scribble is enough.

When I started working for Jhane almost a year ago, I found her to be creative and artistic, and also inspired by mathematics and algorithms.  In fact, Jhane employs mathematicians who write her exclusive proprietary software which we use to generate abstract geometric designs.

Working with Jhane, I have discovered my inner computer nerd.  I have learned to use so many new graphics programs.  We’re using software that no one else in fashion is using like fractal software, mathematical generators, and 3-D animation software. We’re even beta testing brand new software as well.  I still love Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator, and I’ve looked to other industries to find alternative ways to use these programs.  Since the main focus of our sportswear line is shirts, I took a pattern-making class to learn how a shirt is constructed.  By the way, there is a lot of math and geometry involved in pattern-making.

This is a sneak peek at a engineered digital print for Spring 2010—a tribute to the "orange scribble".

This is a sneak peek at a engineered digital print for Spring 2010—a tribute to the "orange scribble".

A lot of the skills that I learned as a fine artist are transferable to textile design.  For instance, even in menswear, it is important to know how to draw flowers traditionally, before you can draw flowers abstractly.  Color is the first thing that people notice, and if it’s not pleasing to the eye or flattering, it doesn’t matter how well a garment fits or how innovative the fabric.

We just finished designing our Spring 2010 line, which was loosely inspired by grafitti and painting.  Some of these shirts were actually approached in the same way that I would make an abstract painting, with the exception that I used a computer to literally layer high resolution scans of paint strokes, drips and splatters, instead of real paint which is messy and toxic.  In fact, many art critics and mathematicians believe even the action paintings of Jackson Pollock are based on fractals.

-Heidi Bender, Assistant Designer at Jhane Barnes Menswear

Jhane Barnes—Designer, Mentor, Educator

Wednesday, April 22nd, 2009

Hi. I’m Iviva, one of Jhane’s designers. I’ve been working with Jhane for the past couple of years, and having her as a mentor has made a huge impact on me.

When I turned 30, I did something that was scary for me. Despite having a successful career in non-profit management, I felt unfulfilled, and decided to go back to school to study textile design in FIT’s one-year AAS program.

When I started at FIT, I knew I loved fabric, but I did not really know what a textile designer does. I soon fell in love with the traditional hand-painting techniques for print design, and even more importantly with weaving. When I graduated, I hoped to find a job that would allow me to continue doing what I loved. My professors warned me that a weaving or hand painting job would be hard to find, as most textile design is done on the computer. After six months of interviews, I finally found a match—I began working at Jhane Barnes Menswear.

This is one of the first swatches I wove for Jhane.

This is one of the first swatches I wove for Jhane.

Going into work was like a dream come true: Jhane had her own looms, and an endless supply of yarns. Even better, for my first six months, my main responsibility was to weave sample swatches for our Hong Kong mill. I learned how to operate a 32-harness dobby loom and use Weavemaker software. I fell in love with weaving all over again from a new perspective. Finally, I got to experience the full process of making a garment from a designer’s initial concept, to a small handloom, to sample fabric, and a sample shirt.

How we design and what we make at Jhane Barnes has changed since my initiation into weaving. Jhane believes in life-long learning, and passes this value onto her staff members, sharing information and resources, and encouraging us to do the same. Our design process is collaborative and ever-evolving, just like our designs. One person may have an initial concept, and another will offer feedback and advice on tweaking the color, or adjusting the layout. We also constantly share new tricks for using Photoshop and Illustrator to get the results we need.

In addition to teaching herself about weaving and becoming an expert (Jhane bought her first loom in 1978!), Jhane has embraced computers and technology. She is ahead of the curve in incorporating these tools into her design process. In Fall 2009, Jhane will launch Jhane Barnes Digital, a line of garments with engineered digital prints. In an engineered print, each aspect of the fabric pattern coincides with a specific part of the garment. We use numerous software programs to create these designs, and are always discovering new plug-ins and ways to use them. Creating engineered digital prints has been extremely challenging. The placement of each motif and every detail is critical! The result are garments with incredibly rich color that look like nothing else in the market. Once again, through a desire to move beyond the ordinary, Jhane is redefining fashion, and learning and sharing new skills along the way.

Rhedux: Clothing with an Environmental Edge

Monday, April 13th, 2009

My passion for design is evident in every product I create, from carpets to men’s fashion. My products also reflect my passion for the environment. In my Spring 2009 men’s line I launched Rhedux, clothing with a fresh look, a trimmer silhouette, and an environmental conscience. Here is a quick look at Rhedux, and how I am working to adopt environmentally sensitive practices in everything I make.

One area that has always intrigued me is the amount of sample materials, including yarns and fabrics, that mills produce and inadvertently throw away. All mills create sample yarns and yardage to market to designers. Some of these materials, often of the highest quality, may be too expensive for their intended audience, or may not meet designers’ aesthetic needs for that season. In this case, these high-end materials end up in the trash.

For years, I dreamed of a way to collect and harness these materials. Just think—a literal gold mine of fabric was going to waste at mills all over the world! Finally, in 2008, I made an extended tour of many of my factories.  I identified a number of truly luxurious fabrics that were being stored in research labs, purchased them at a good price, and worked with my design team to make them look more like me.

Crescendo (Rhedux Collection)

For example, here is Crescendo. The reclaimed fabric was a soft seersucker with simple grey and white stripes.  While the texture was intriguing, the fabric needed more color and depth. I designed a blue print to sit on top. The print is digital, which uses less wash water than a regular screen print, and also has an unlimited color palette. The resulting shirt has a sophisticated interplay of color, texture, and pattern.

I am now using digital printing in ways no one has ever done before. In Fall 2009, I am introducing Jhane Barnes Digital, a line of engineered digital garments! While I love the freedom to design with millions of colors, I also love the fact that I am helping to reduce water wastage.

Another recent development is the introduction of shirts made in India, where printing and dyeing is done by hand. The dyeing and printing use less wash water than a screen print produced at an industrial mill. This is just one more way I am choosing to partner with mills who are sensitive to the environment.

Inside One of My Favorite Spring 09 Shirts

Wednesday, April 8th, 2009

When I started my career, I was purchasing fabrics from other people. But I was dissatisfied with the designs that were available. Eventually I realized that to get the fabrics I dreamed of, I would have to create them myself. So I bought a loom and taught myself how to weave. I also discovered I had to learn how to design weaving patterns. All my designing was done by hand, with paper and pencil. A few years later I got my first computer (an Atari) and discovered what a joy it was to be able to design so much more quickly, to experiment, and to learn. I love complex woven designs, where yarns and colors and weaves interact to create layers of design and texture.

Dentrite

Dentrite

Jumping ahead a quarter century, I’m still loving these complex designs, and always learning new ways to design. I have recently designed a number of “push-pull” shirts.  Here is a glimpse of how push-pull works.

At first glance, you might think this shirt (at left), called “Dentrite,” is printed, but it’s actually woven, as you can see in the close-up (below left).

Dentrite Closeup

Dentrite Closeup

The weave structure is called “double-weave” because the fabric is woven in two layers. Most of the shirt is constructed so that these two layers are tightly bound together. In these areas, you cannot easily tell that the fabric is in two layers.

But other areas of the shirt are woven with the two layers entirely separated. You can grasp the outside and inside of the shirt, and pull the two layers apart, creating a hollow space within the fabric. The large, dark, diamond shaped areas are done this way.

After the shirt is woven, it receives additional processing (called “finishing”). One step in this process slightly separates the two layers of fabric, and then moves the weft yarns in the front layer sideways.

As a result, the weft yarns no longer run in straight lines, but curve quite dramatically. Some of the yarns cluster together, and some of them move farther apart. You can see the resulting wiggling in the photograph of the shirt, and in the close-up below. This technique is called “push-pull.”

Dentrite Showing Push-Pull Effect

Dentrite Showing Push-Pull Effect

Note that the front layer of the shirt becomes quite open in places, as a result of the weft yarns being moved aside. You can clearly see the back layer of shirt fabric showing through these spaces (an effect called “grin through”).

The construction is 108 ends per inch by 100 picks per inch. The yarn is 80/2 cotton warp, while the weft is 80/2 cotton and 40/1 cupro rayon weft, pick and pick.

Tony Robbins/Chet Holmes

Sunday, April 5th, 2009

Just got back from a life changing Tony Robbins/Chet Holmes Business Mastery seminar in Las Vegas. I learned so much. It so exciting to be alive during this time in history. So much will change in the next few years.

I was supposed to appear at the Saks store today in Palm Beach Gardens to meet clients who wear my clothes!… but my flight was cancelled and no flights on ANY airline were available! There were thunder storms in NY yesterday, I heard. I missed the last day of the seminar too!