Archive for May, 2009

Strategizing for the future

Wednesday, May 27th, 2009
Jhane and Makoto

Jhane and Makoto

It’s Memorial Day weekend, and I’m taking advantage of some downtime to strategize for the future. I’m looking through designs I’ve created over the last few years that never made it into production. And I’m reflecting on why they dropped by the wayside.  A lot of them are ones that guys would look great in.  So what happened?

My fashions are mostly sold in stores such as Neiman-Marcus, Saks, and smaller specialty stores.  These stores have their own ideas about what will sell, and those ideas influence what they buy from me.  What happens is that my customers only see what stores buy.  I actually design two or three times as many things as make it to market.  So the stores are a huge filter between me and my customers.

Over the years, the stores and the fashion industry have also defined me as someone who makes crazy, mathematically inspired, wildly patterned shirts.  For this reason, stores tend to buy my most special and unique pieces, the ones that stand out for being exciting and different.

I’m not complaining!  It’s fun do design these pieces. I’m never bored!

But I fear that I may have let down the “regular guy” dressing for the “regular day.”

That is, I think there are a lot of guys who like the style and quality of my shirts (and pants, sweaters, socks, and jackets!), but might find some of my more artistic designs too bold for everyday wear.

I like my “special” stuff and would not dream of creating a line without shirts like “Dentrite,” or my new line of digital prints.

I also like the challenge of making that “deceptively simple” shirt.  The one that, at first glance, looks like just a regular shirt – but as you look at it more closely, you see the complex weave or interesting texture or subtle mixing of colors.  I like designs that slowly pull you in.

I promise to never be the designer who puts an emblem on a polo shirt and calls it a day!  But I will certainly make interesting shirts that are both easy to wear and fascinating at the same time.

So, that’s my weekend!  I am literally being a critic of my own work, analyzing how I can create a line of menswear that has a more rounded selection, appealing to a wider group of guys. I always want to design for that artistic guy who likes to be on the fringe, *and* that sophisticated guy who appreciates good design that is more subtle, while still being very special.

Fractals: From Pollock to Broccoflower

Tuesday, May 26th, 2009

In my last blog titled “Geek Fashion”, I told the story of my inner struggles as a self-described fashionista [slash] computer nerd. I am extremely lucky to have found a geek’s sanctuary working for Jhane, as she has taken the dialogue between art and math and synthesized it with men’s fashions.

When I am designing with Jhane, I am inspired by so many things. My painting background influences me to think about pattern, color, texture, brush strokes, light, space (not “outer space” LOL) and transitions. The analytical part of my brain leads me to think about algorithms, iterations, mathematics and fractals. When these things work in conjunction, it’s magic.

Working for Jhane, everything always goes back to fractals, somehow.

At the end of “Geek Fashion”, I mention how some art critics and mathematicians believe that the action paintings of Jackson Pollock are based on fractals. I was so excited by this tidbit of information that one night, after several pints of Guinness, I told my painter friend about this. He wasn’t as excited as I was… He said he had heard that one before and didn’t really put a lot of stock in that theory.  (Since this conversation did take place at the local pub, you can imagine that this is the family-friendly abbreviated version…) Still excited about my new information, I protested, “No, but you don’t understand!  I spend hours a day everyday at work thinking about painting and art and fractals and algorithms!” (To read more about Jackson Pollock and fractals, Jennifer Ouellette wrote a definitive article for Discover Magazine: Pollock’s Fractals.)

Ok, so I admit, maybe that was a bit of an exaggeration to exclaim that I spend hours a day thinking about fractals, but it does seem that somehow everything goes back to fractals. To me, the fact that so many experts could find iterations and patterns in the seemingly random paintings of Jackson Pollock…this validated my whole existence…well, at least for that brief moment….

Fractal Broccoli, also known as Romanesco Broccoli

Fractal broccoflower, also known as Romanesco Broccoli

And sometimes I’m not even thinking about work or art or fashion and fractals pop up….Here’s another example:

Jhane and her team are always looking to try new healthy foods. A recent obsession for me was broccoflower from Trader Joe’s produce section. Broccoflower looks like a broccoli-cauliflower hybrid.  It tastes sort of like cauliflower, but slightly different. I admit, it’s mostly the novelty of a new vegetable that thrills me so much! Thinking about the cloned meat controversy, I wanted to know more about how this unusual vegetable came to be.

I did a little research and found out that what I was buying at TJ’s is literally green cauliflower. And that there is a second type of broccolflower, which is the result of broccoli and cauliflower cross-pollinating (which can happen by natural means). This is also known as Romanesco Broccoli, and has beautiful spirals which follow Fibannaci’s sequence. Each big spiral is made up of lots of little spirals, similar to sea shells. To read more about broccoflower, John Walker wrote a great article called “Fractal Food“.

Besides being mathematical equations, fractals also occur quite frequently in nature. If you would like to know more about this, you can check out an episode of Nova, which Jhane participated in (Chapter 3), which is all about fractals.

-Heidi Bender, Assistant Designer at Jhane Barnes Menswear

Jhane Interviewed by Jon Armstrong

Friday, May 22nd, 2009
Jon Armstrong

Jon Armstrong

Jhane was just interviewed by Jon Armstrong, noted author and host of if you’re just joining us. He and Jhane discuss Jhane’s passion for Star Trek, fractals, how Jhane got started in business, and Jhane reveals some insider information about secret Japanese technology that goes into her fashions. Check out the podcast.